Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a international community of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and lively culinary scene," according to a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this time-honored city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the global gaze for what has always shaped its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their children are unwilling to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to discover these stories and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
